by the time you read this, I'll be in Jerusalem...

And probably have a real coffee at Yaravan's cafe just inside the Old City (near the New Gate - take a left just at the first street.  Can't miss it.  As the Turks say, coffee should be strong as death, black as hell, and sweet as love.

I'll try to post some updates from our 2009 Holy Land pilgrimage as we travel.  If you would like to see the basic itinerary, click here.